princess crown

Another oder from my friend. Simple crown for her princess daughter.......

Owl Pouch

Supplies:

Cotton or Worsted Weight yarn
G size hook
tapestry needle, scissors
small button
9mm animal eyes
Note: This is not crocheted in a spiral; it is crocheted in individual rounds.  Joining rounds normally gives a moving seam, so I chose to join my rounds using the No-Cut Join method as described by Planet June for a straight seam.  The instructions here will include a short description, but head over to Planet June to see a full tutorial and videos on this joining method.
The instructions below are to create the owl shown above.

Body:

Round 1: Start with a magic circle.  Work 6 SC into ring and join. (6 stitches)
Round 2: CH 1.  Work 2 SC into each stitch.  Joining: Remove hook from last SC.  Insert hook into first SC from back to front.  Add loop from the last stitch onto the hook and pull through tightly.  (12 stitches)
Round 3: CH 1.  Work 1 SC into current stitch (the one where you joined), then 2 SC into next stitch.  *Work 1 SC into next stitch, followed by 2 SC in next stitch* around.  Repeat no-cut joining method. (18 stitches)
Round 4: CH 1. Work 1 SC into current stitch, and 1 SC into next stitch.  Then work 2 SC into next stitch.  *Work  1 SC into each of next 2 stitches, followed by 2 SC in next stitch* around. Join. (24 stitches)
Round 5: CH 1. Work 1 SC into current stitch, and 1 SC into next 2 stitches.  Then work 2 SC into next stitch.  *Work 1 SC into each of next 3 stitches, followed by 2 SC in next stitch* around. Join. (30 stitches)
Round 6: CH 1. Work 1 SC into each of 30 stitches around, starting with the current stitch (where you joined the previous round). (30 stitches)
At the end of Round 6, change colors to create stripes.  To join new yarn, I used Planet June’s Invisible Join method: after the last stitch, cut yarn leaving a tail, and pull tail through stitch.  Insert hook into the 2nd stitch in the round from back to front under both bars and pull tail through.  Then insert hook into last stitch in round from back to front through only the back loop and pull tail through.  (It’s easier to watch the video.)
Round 7-8: CH 1. Work 1 SC into each of 30 stitches around, starting with the current stitch. (30 stitches). Change yarn color.
Round 9-10: CH 1. Work 1 SC into each of 30 stitches around, starting with the current stitch. (30 stitches). Change yarn color.
Round 11-12: CH 1. Work 1 SC into each of 30 stitches around, starting with the current stitch. (30 stitches). Change yarn color.
Round 13-15: CH 1. Work 1 SC into each of 30 stitches around, starting with the current stitch. (30 stitches).  Join.
Row 16: CH 1. Work 1 SC into next 15 stitches. CH 1. Turn.
Row 17: Starting with the 2nd chain from the hook, SC 2 stitches together (sc2tog). Work 1 SC into each stitch in the row (11 stitches) until there are 2 stitches left.  SC2tog the last two stitches.  CH 1. Turn. (13 stitches)
Row 18: Starting with the 2nd chain from hook, sc2tog, then work 1 SC into each of next 9 stitches. SC2tog last two stitches. CH 1. Turn. (11 stitches)
Row 19: Starting with the 2nd chain from hook, sc2tog, then work 1 SC into each of next 7 stitches.  SC2tog last two stitches. CH 1. Turn. (9 stitches)
Row 20: Starting with the 2nd chain from hook, sc2tog, then work 1 SC into each of next 5 stitches.  SC2tog last two stitches. CH 1. Turn. (7 stitches)
Row 21: Starting with the 2nd chain from hook, sc2tog, then work 1 SC into each of next 3 stitches.  SC2tog last two stitches. CH 1. Turn. (5 stitches)
Row 22: Starting with the 2nd chain from hook, sc2tog, then work 1 SC into next stitch.  SC2tog last two stitches. Do not turn. (3 stitches).
Border: Work slip stitches down side of flap, around back of pouch opening and back up other side of flap.  Make last slip stitch in the 3rd stitch of Row 22.  CH 5.  Slip stitch into 1st stitch of Row 22.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

Eyes: (make 2)

Round 1: Start with a magic circle. Work 6 SC into ring.  Join. (6 stitches)
Round 2: CH 1. Work 2 SC into each stitch around.  Join. (12 stitches)
Fasten off with long tail.

Finishing:

Push plastic eyes through a point between the 1st and 2nd rows of the eye piece (not through center of circle).  Using the tail and a tapestry needle, attach eyes so that plastic eye is pushed through the body, centered and between Rounds 12 and 13, counting from the bottom.  Push backing of plastic eye on securely.
Attach button to the center of the back of the body between Rounds 11 and 12, counting from the bottom.
Using a tapestry needle, create a beak centered right below the eyes.
Cut strands of leftover yarn and create the tufts using a lark’s knot where the body meets the flap.

tutorial buat bakul aka crochet basket pattern

step by step

Buat bakul buatan sendiri untuk kegunaan menyimpan benang-benang. Walaupun dah byk bekas menyimpan benang...tapi kenapa la asik tak cukup je kannn...hahhaa sendiri tau jawapannya.....asal ada org jual benang asik nak beli jew tu la padahnya. ambik ubat dah cam tokeh benang....

Materials

3 Skeins super bulky yarn (guna brand ice...lama beli benang besar nie tp tak tau nak buat apo)
Size L (8.0mm) crochet hook
Yarn needle

* kalau benang besar tak de boleh gak guna 3 helai benang biasa tu sekali je..lum cuba lg...sbb cam sayang benang nak guna sekali byk....

Measurements

smaller basket
8.5 inches in diameter
5.5 inches in height

larger basket
10 inches in diameter
10 inches in height

contoh gambar di atas tu buat larger basket....tak la large mana pun.....heee ok la kan buat simpan2 benang yg kita nak kait.

Pattern


Smaller basket

Ch 2 or magic ring

Rnd 1: 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook

Rnd 2: 2 hdc in each st. Join with sl st. (16 hdc)

Rnd 3: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in next st, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st) around. Join with sl st. (24 hdc)

Rnd 4: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in next 2 sts, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts) around. Join with sl st. (32 hdc)

Rnd 5: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in next 3 sts, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts) around. Join with sl st. (40 hdc)

Rnd 6: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in next 4 sts, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 4 sts) around. Join with sl st. (48 hdc)

The next round will be the first row of the body of the basket. You will be working into the back of each hdc.

Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc under the line or ridge on the back of the first st of previous round. (Half double crochet stitches have a line or ridge on the back of the stitch). You will be working under this line or ridge, not into the regular loops.

This will leave the two loops of the stitch

creating a seam separating the bottom and body of the basket

Continue working sc around. Join with a sl st.

Rnd 8: Ch 2, hdc into next st and in each st around. Join with sl st.

Rnd 9: Ch 1, Working in the back loop only, sc in the same st and in each st around. Join with sl st.

Rnd 10: Ch 2, hdc in next st and in each st around. Join with sl st.

Rnd 11: Ch 1. Sc in same st and in each st around. Join with sl st.

Rnd 12: Ch 2, hdc in next st and in each st around. Join with sl st.

Rnd 13: Ch 1, working in back loops only, sc in same st, and in each st around. Join with sl st.

You will create the handles in rnd 14

Rnd 14: Ch 2, hdc in next 8 sts. Ch 7, skip the next 5 sts. Hdc in the next 19 sts. Ch 7, skip the next 5 sts. Hdc in the next 10 sts. Join with sl st

Rnd 15: Ch 1, sc in same st and in the next 8 sts. Work 8 sc under the ch 7 space. (Do not work into the sts). Sc in next 19 sts. Work 8 sc under the ch 7 space. Sc in next 10 sts.

Finish off with the no knot finishing method. 

I have made a larger basket...I prefer the larger size (I'm in the process of adding the photos for the larger basket)

You will increase the bottom by one round.

Rnds 1-6: Refer to the instructions above

Rnd 7: Ch 2, hdc in same st. Hdc in next 5 sts. (2 hdc in next st, 5 hdc in next st) around, join with sl st. (56 hdc)

Rnd 8: Working under the line or ridge on the back of the hdc, sc in each st around. This round creates the seam (described above)

I added 3 rows to the body of the basket for the larger size. (if you need more detailed instructions for beginning and joining each round refer to the details of each round for the smaller basket)

Rnd 9: Hdc round

Rnd 10: Sc round

Rnd 11: Sc round in the back loop only

Rnd 12: Hdc round

Rnd 13: Sc round

Rnd 14: Hdc round

Rnd 15: Sc round

Rnd 16: Sc in the back loop only

Rnd 17: Ch 2, hdc in the next 9 sts, Ch 9, skip 8 sts, hdc in next 20 sts, Ch 9, skip next 8 sts, hdc in next 9 sts. Join with sl st.

Rnd 18: Sc round, working 10 sc under the ch 9 spaces (not into each st). Join and finish off.

Crocheted African Flower Pincushion

patern boleh di dapati di sini : patern pincushion

Permintaan dari kawan yang tengah rajin menghasilkan barangan jahitan.....

teady bear

Teady bear masuk bertanding...adakah bertuah....tunggu....

Crochet android toy

Size:

• Approximately 7" (18 cm) tall

Materials:

• Worsted weight yarn in Green and White.
• Suggested Hook Size: F (3.75 mm)
• 12 mm two-piece black eyes or eyes of your choice.
• Fiberfill stuffing

Optional:

• Extra pair of two-piece eyes (9 mm) for arm joints.
• Weighted stuffing for legs.
• Plastic Canvas for base of legs.

Notes:

• Android worked in continuous spirals.
• Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each row. Move stitch marker up each time you start a new row.

Color Code:

• MC: Main Color (Green)
• CC: Contrast Color (White)

Body

With MC make a magic ring.

R1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6 st)
R2: 2 sc in each stitch around. (12 st)
R3: (2 sc in next stitch, sc in next) 6 times (18 st)
R4: (2 sc in next stitch, sc in next 2 st) 6 times (24 st)
R5: (2 sc in next stitch, sc in next 3 st) 6 times (30 st)
R6: (2 sc in next stitch, sc in next 4 st) 6 times (36 st)
R7: (2 sc in next stitch, sc in next 5 st) 6 times (42 st)
R8: (2 sc in next stitch, sc in next 6 st) 6 times (48 st)
R9-13: 1 sc in each stitch around (48 st)
R14-15: Change to CC 1 sc in each stitch around (48 st)

If you’re using two-piece animal eyes, you should insert them now. I put mine between rounds 8 and 9 about 9 stitches apart. The eyes should be on the opposite side of the head from where you begin each round.

R16-31: Change back to MC 1 sc in each stitch around (48 st)

If you’re going to make the arm joints using two-piece animal eyes, you should make the arms now and then attach them to the body with the eyes before you start stuffing your Android. If you’re going to thread-joint the Android’s arms then you should stuff the Android almost full now and then continue closing him up.

R32: (invisible decrease, 1 sc in next 6 st) 6 times (42 st)
R33: (invdec, sc in next 5 st) 6 times (36 st)
R34: (invdec, sc in next 4 st) 6 times (30 st)
R35: (invdec, sc in next 3 st) 6 times (24 st)
R36: (invdec, sc in next 2 st) 6 times (18 st)
R37: (invdec, sc in next 1 st) 6 times (12 st)

Finish stuffing the body.

R38: (invdec) 6 times (6 st)

Fasten off. Stitch the hole closed and weave in the end of the yarn.

Antennae (Make 2)

With MC ch 5

R1: sl st in 2nd chain from hook and in each remaining chain. (4 st)

Cut yarn, leaving a long yarn end. Draw end through last loop and pull tight to fasten off.

Sew on to the top of the Android head. The left antenna should line up with the inside corner of the left eye, the right with the inside corner of the right eye.

Arms (Make 2)

With MC make a magic ring.

R1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6 st)
R2: 2 sc in each stitch around. (12 st)
R3-13: 1 sc in each st around (12 st)

If you are making the Android with two-piece animal eyes then now is the time to put the front of the eye in the arm and attach it to the body. (Which you left open at R31)

After you attach the arm to the body, stuff the arm.

If you aren’t using the two-piece animal eyes for joints, then disregard the eye-joint instructions and just stuff the arm. (The arm should be about 6.5 cm long.)

R14: (invdec) 6 times (6 st)

Fasten off. Stitch the hole closed and weave in the end of the yarn.

Once you’ve made both arms, you can attach them to the body by thread-jointing them on. I put my Android’s arms a little too high. They should be attached below the white line around the Android’s neck.

Legs (Make 2)

Option 1

The first option for the legs is to make your Android stand. To make these you need the weighted stuffing and the plastic canvas. You might also need the toe-ends of a pair of stockings if you want to make sure the plastic pellets don’t fall through the holes between the stitches in the legs.

With MC make a magic ring.

R1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6 st)
R2: 2 sc in each stitch around. (12 st)
R3: (2 sc in next stitch, sc in next) 6 times (18 st)
R4-10: 1 sc in each stitch around (18 st)

Fasten off, leaving a long yarn end. Cut a piece of plastic canvas to make a flat base for the Android’s foot. Put the canvas in the bottom of the foot. Stuff the leg with weighted stuffing. If you don’t put the pellets in the toes of the tights or in sewing bags, then put a little fiberfill stuffing in over the top of the pellets to keep the pellets from escaping while you sew the leg to the Android body.

When you’ve made both legs, sew the legs to the body. They should be in the middle of the base of the body about 2 cm apart.

Legs (Make 2)

Option 2

If you don’t want your Android to be able to stand on his own, then you can make the legs look more like the real Android legs. For these legs you just need ordinary fiberfill stuffing instead of the weighted stuffing. (The legs should end up being about 3 cm tall.)

With MC make a magic ring.

R1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6 st)
R2: 2 sc in each stitch around. (12 st)
R3-7: 1 sc in each st around (12 st)

Fasten off, leaving a long yarn end. Stuff the legs and sew them on. They should be in the middle of the base of the body about 1 cm apart.

Baby Chicky Amigurumi

Head: make 1 piece with your choice of yarn color. Work from top to bottom.
Rnd1: Make magic ring and 6sc in ring (6)
Rnd2: 2sc in each st around (12)
Rnd3: *Sc in next st, 2sc in next st*, repeat * around (18)
Rnd4: *Sc in next 2 st, 2sc in next st*, repeat * around (24)
Rnd5: *Sc in next 3 st, 2sc in next st*, repeat * around (30)
Rnd6: *Sc in next 4 st, 2sc in next st*, repeat * around (36)
Rnd7-14: Sc in each st around (36)
Rnd15: *sc in each of next 4 st, dec 1*, repeat * around (30)
Rnd16: *sc in each of next 3 st, dec 1*, repeat * around (24)
Rnd17: *sc in each of next 2 st, dec 1*, repeat * around (18)
Rnd18: *sc in next st, dec 1*, repeat * around (12), finish off with a long tail for sewing.
Stuff polyester firmly.
 

Body: make 1 piece with your choice of yarn color. Work from bottom to top.
Rnd1: Make magic ring and 6sc in ring (6)
Rnd2: 2sc in each st around (12)
Rnd3: *Sc in next st, 2sc in next st*, repeat * around (18)
Rnd4: *Sc in next 2 st, 2sc in next st*, repeat * around (24)
Rnd5-10: Sc in each st around (24)
Rnd11: *sc in each of next 2 st, dec 1*, repeat * around (18)
Finish off with a long tail for sewing. Stuff polyester firmly.


Wings: make 2 pieces with your choice of yarn color.
Rnd1: Make magic ring and 6sc in ring (6)
Rnd2: 2sc in each st around (12)
Rnd3: *Sc in next st, 2sc in next st*, repeat * around (18)
Rnd4: Sc in each st around (18)
Finish off with a long tail for sewing (as shown in the photos).


Mouth: make 1 piece with your choice of yarn color.
Rnd1: Make magic ring, 8sc in ring (8) and join with slst.
Finish off with a long tail for sewing.


Legs: make 2 pieces with your choice of yarn color.
Rnd1: Make magic ring, 10sc in ring (10) and join with slst.
Finish off with a long tail for sewing.


Finishing: Install plastic eyes, sew mouth to the head.
Sew head to body, then wings and legs.
Glue the ribbon to the neck.